#185 More Mechanical Stuff!


hello everyone I hope you’re all doing
well I’m happy because Vinny was able to connect with a really great mechanic and
they worked really well together and we had our transmission removed and it was determined that there was a
problem with the plates so we’re going to get that replaced in the meantime we
were able to get the numbers off the old damper plate which also needed to be
replaced and we’ve ordered that so we are waiting for that to come in and next
week we will get that installed the transmission back in and hopefully we
can start moving forward again in our last episode I met Brian the
mechanic and I’ve been really learning a lot from him
what is this so that is someone’s attempt to bond very stupid well very
stupid I’ve never seen that before in my life
what you’ve got here is it’s actually weeping out of the seal oh really okay
so my recommendation would be to replace the pump okay the pump itself you can
rebuild these things what I’m seeing on the back side you see that rust right
there yeah that rust is coming out of the weep hole that’s on the opposite
side of the pump that I saw from over here okay which means that when that
impeller failed it either got pieces in there that’s a unitized seal right so
you’ve got a teflon piece and then you have a carbon ring right and the to
actually have pressure against each other and the water lubricates it but
that’s supposed to seal it so when something gets behind either side of
that or trash gets in between the two of them they cause a wear groove and it
will no longer seal now the rebuild kit what I found with pumps don’t take
rebuilds very well plain and simple even though this is a
newer poem yeah I wouldn’t recommend doing that
because you’re also rusting up this mount okay okay so there’s your tack at
this juncture monitor go on a run and see if it’s wet after you run but if not
it could have been from before okay so this is what I want to do we need to
replace this hose clamp that you got on there yeah I do not like open bands
okay open bands allow rust even though it’s stainless it’s stainless not stain
proof this is a solid band clamp they don’t rust through he and in that
particular instance that’s what happened that Holmes grant failed since we’re
installing a brand new transmission I wanted to also change out the cables
that go to the throttle as well as to the engine fuel leaver because these are
over 30 years old and I wanted to get brand new ones that are more efficient
many of you wrote in and told me how to unscrew the screw that was stainless
steel that was stuck kind of galvanized into the aluminum frame and so I
borrowed some PB Blaster and then also got a larger hammer and let’s see how
that works out the reason I need to open this up is because I also want to
prepare for Bryan to be able to install the cables and so I want to open things
up to make it as easy as possible for them to save labor time as well as
inspect my steering wow it actually moved a little I think it’s working hey guys how you doing well I just got a
call from my mechanic he couldn’t make it today that’s just one of the things
that happens requires a lot of flexibility so I would like to end with
a special thank you to our patreon supporters Vinny says that you’re the
reason that we make these videos and that’s really the truth you’re actually
the reason we continue to make the videos and that we’re still present on
YouTube so I just want to say thank you and I hope that you’re enjoying the
videos I know that there’s a lot of work and love and effort that goes into
making them into making them really good and for those of you who have considered
thinking about being a patreon supporter please do so we appreciate the support
and we’re hoping that we’re giving you something in return that you really like
– next week we will get that installed the transmission back in and hopefully
we can start moving forward again you

36 thoughts on “#185 More Mechanical Stuff!

  1. Vin, before you buy another Garmin please look at this video on "Broadband" radar. I think you'll find it vvery interesting. It's made by several manufacturers including Lawrance, Simrad and B&G which I had on my last sailboat. As a matter of fact, I had all B&G electronics and was amazed by them compared to the Garmins I used to own. My new boat is getting a Simrad when the time comes…..doing a complete diesel replacement in another month! But that's another story! Here's a link so you can see what I'm talking about ……Link: https://youtu.be/pwFnzA4Ewcs Good Luck!

  2. Vinnie, I recently went through the brands available to replace my old essentially non-functional Navman system and selected B&G. They were a bit more styled towarss sailing and were a little more aggressive in putting together a deal.

  3. I removed the navpod on the boat I bought last year and had my boatyard fabricate a grab bar at a sensible height for using when it is rough. They made it with a flat top which is better than the curved top you have.

    I added a multi-jointed swing out arm so my electronics can be used inside or outside.

    Also take a look at the design Drake Paragon has. His is mounted lower on the grab bar and can be rotated so someone on watch reclining and looking aft can monitor it.

    You are in fresh water so your AL anode is effective but that won't be the case in salt water.

    I've rebuilt water pumps a few times but felt it was safer to replace them.

    You are making great progress on those projects!

  4. I have (had) that same Raymarine nav system on a twin engine power yacht. Probably was good in its day, and definitely expensive, but I hated it. It would freeze up requiring a restart at unpredictable times. Maybe Florida heat and direct sunshine??? who knows, but I needed reliability. I pulled it out and replaced it with a sealed glove box where I put binoculars, handheld air horn, glasses, cell phone, etc. For a while I used an iPad with Nav software and it worked great, but it too didn't like the FLorida heat and would go into cooling mode on occasion. The black waterproof case likely caused that issue.
    I then purchased a 7'' Garmin with touch control, wifi, and ActiveCaptain and installed in a new location. Love it. Had to put in a new high priced transducer. Those babies are expensive. Research the transducer before making a decision on a nav unit.

  5. Hi Vinny,
    Anodes made from a special aluminum alloy are best for all waters and used by the navy read here.
    https://performancemetals.com/pages/navalloy-aluminum-anodes
    But an anode hanging over the side is a poor substitute for a proper anode attached to the hull and bonded to fittings.

    Depco in Florida do a great job rebuilding raw water pumps , for under $200 vs $7-800 for a new pump, get you old one rebuilt as a spare if you go new…..
    lots of ventilation is needed to keep engine room dry, a block heater is not practical on anchor! And a warm engine rusts faster in a damp environment ,like most chemical reactions ( rusting).
    Cheers Warren

  6. I know you guys are wounding when is it going to stop..but it is better NOW than later and also you got the time to learn.ehen out at sea is not a good place to learn but be able to repair from knowage is a great feeling

  7. Ok you wanted some input on radar and navigation equipment. Well you can do several things. I have a 10 inch Samsung Galaxy Tab in a waterproof case. most of the Apple supported Apps now port to Android. The Android is cheaper to lose and bigger/faster. I also have a pad with google maps on it so I can see sandbars, etc. Ok…you don't have to buy a big expensive chartplotter like a lot of people do. Get a wifi enabled cheaper model. That way you can mount the extra pads and they can receive info from the data stream available in your chartplotter. Also there are little hundred or so dollar converters that do the same thing which attach to the Nema bus for your equipment and give a wifi link. You may want to consider putting the chartplotter below out of the weather, but if it takes less work just replace what you've got or add one below if you think the old one still has some life left. Oh get a doppler type 4g or better radar.

  8. Chart plotter. We have a raymarine C80 and still find it very useful. Just keep up with a navionics subscription and you are up to date with echarts. No reason to spend a lot of money on new unless yours isn’t working.

  9. A larger hammer–but still the wrong hammer. FWIW, a ball peen hammer and a carpenter's hammer are made of different steels. The carpenter's hammer is likely to throw off shards of steel, small splinters that can get in your eye, when it is used to strike other metal objects. (We all use goggles, right? Well…) The ball peen hammer is meant to be striking metal, like chisels and impact wrenches, and if anything it would deform slightly, rather than throwing off metal shards. If you check out flea markets, there's usually a table somewhere full of old tools for a buck or two each. Ball peen hammers and short mauls are always there, and a little cleanup is all they need to keep working like new.

  10. Good work Amy and Vin. I can see you are becoming more comfortable around the boat and with the inevitable issues.

  11. You will find that aluminium is higher in the electro-chemical series and therefore more chemically reactive. This means it will consume itself more quickly but offers increased protection. Mu two cents worth.

  12. Getting close. Glad to see you got the hand impact driver to work with a little bit of good penetrating fluid.

  13. Good Navigation systems are expensive.. lol Get the best you can afford Garmin is great with the chirp (sounder). Im looking at them too. actually looking at boats and seeing the nav setups.

  14. When taking things apart, I learned to take a picture before hand. Even a picture at each step. If taking out screws, parts and such, put them in a baggy and label (1,2,3…). Then label the picture so you know which goes where. Sure makes putting it all back together easier.

  15. Don't throw away the old raw water pump, they are not that difficult to repair, if you buy a new one order a repair kit for the old one and ceep it on the boat as a spare part.

  16. if that radar is still working, why not keep it until you're ready to replace it? the early warning it may give you of a storm or a big ship you can't see in the fog may make it worth keeping… be safe, Tim and Cat

  17. Glad you guys are starting to get things going in the right direction mechanically speaking. Looking forward to more sailing adventures from s/v yab-yum.

  18. The R&D widget is missing the strap that goes on the outside across two bolts to provide electrical connectivity from the gearbox to the prop shaft. They can probably sell you a new one. There is a lack of grease in the engine throttle control box, if it moves grease it, if it doesn't paint it white. Try to get the water out of the board with ventilation rather than heating up the damp air which will just cool down somewhere else.

  19. you are learning a LOT 🙂 not getting to sail much learning a lot, it is all good

  20. I just watched this Youtube video about current nav use by "most cruisers" in Georgetown. He seems to say everyone is skipping the chart plotter and just going Ipad/Nav app. Seems like saving a lot of money. Does the Garmin have features you want? Also MJ Sailing has a new cheaper windvane system that is cheaper than name brand types that also uses their Ipad. Its the first 7 minutes of their latest video. Boy, things sure have changed in the sailing world.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mzMqxsGeeWg

  21. Props to that mechanic for being willing to talk you through his process.

  22. Vince:
    Brian really seems like he is on his game. I tried to call you to discuss my comments and suggestions below but did not reach you. I had called to suggest that you should probably discuss these items with Brian:

    The first is that the burnt clutch and the burnt fluid are two sides of the same coin, and may actually be a "chicken and egg" thing. Hurth transmissions tend to be very particular about the proper weight lubricants. Some use one grade of ATF, and others use another weight of ATF and some like mine use 30 straight weight oil. Using the wrong weight can cause the clutches to slip and that could burn the clutches and overheat the lubricant, or could overheat the lubricant and cause the clutches to wear. Some Hurths require different summer weights fluid than winter weights. Often putting the proper weight oil in the transmission will stop the clutch slippage problem. (It did on my transmission 18 years ago when I switched back from an ATF to straight weight 30.) And as was the case with my transmission, the internet often gets it wrong.

    So suggestion 1, would be, now that you spent the money for a new transmission, I suggest that you ask Brian to make sure that you have the proper specification for the transmission fluid, and then suggest that you religiously stick to that specification.

    But question 2 relates to the behavior of the engine. This comment is based on the video where the engine seems to bog down at a specific RPM and then dramatically loses RPM's. That does not sound like any transmission problem that I ever heard of, but does sound like a fuel delivery problem with the governor seemingly a prime suspect. The explanation from the British Moddy group does not really describe the behavior of your engine as seen in the video. While the suggested diagnostic does point to a clutch problem in forward, it does not provide clear evidence that you do not also have a fuel supply problem. Once you have the transmission back in the boat, I would suggest that you ask Brian to review the behavior of the governor and fuel delivery system at the suspect RPMs under load. You should be able to do that at the dock.

    Good luck,
    Jeff

  23. that really looked like a "factory" or "OEM" connection to the propeller shaft, that your mechanic called stupid. Either way, that's ingenious, not stupid. (My two cents)

    water pumps are intended to be rebuild, (not always) but yours was. his lie there was immediately detectable by the tell tale laugh/chuckle immediately following his telling you it doesn't rebuild well.

    My recommendation. find a mechanic with experience and integrity before he takes you for more than you have to give. You aren't hiring a friend to get a long with. rather a professional that has integrity and experience.

    From what i can surmise from these series of video's about your transmission work, etc. He's taking you on a fishing trip. (he just sold you some swamp land in the Sahara desert).

    Your a nice guy. seriously Vin. But i think you need a new mechanic.

    I have a feeling that you asked him about your transmission, and he started in about everything else in the world wrong with your engine. and you appreciated his "expertise"? and of course emptied out your pockets to him.

    I know it's not what you want to hear. but it might be what you need to hear. and If i'm wrong, my sincere apologies. Just trying to look out for you sir.

    If you didn't detect any other red flags, you should have seen the red flag when the new transmission didn't bolt up to the prop shaft, and he didnt' forewarn you. Knowing you didn't see that red flag. Of course had he known what he was doing he'd of known he was changing your gear ratio, and when you change your gear ratio you will have to change your prop, or realize different performance.

    You might have noticed a red flag when he didn't test fire the transmission before he collected the final payment.

    and then of course when you test fired it, and the transmission wasn't working right, that red light should have blinded you.

    It's okay, i can give advice all day long, but i'm too trusting too. I know how it works.

    From what i've read, I'm not even close to the only one that doesn't even think you needed a new transmission. A seal maybe (I didn't see the wet spot he was trying to show you). obviously a flex plate. transmission, i doubt it.
    Had the ATF (tranny fluid) been burnt, he'd of only had to smell it once. and you'd of probably smelled it from a distance. Him smelling it repeatedly was a tell tale sign that he wasn't sure if it was burnt or not. burnt tranny fluid is quite obvious. any expert can detect it immediately, even from a slight distance.

    that "plastic " plate he was complaining about, it's there for a reason, and is quite effective at what it does (it doesn't hurt to have a spare on hand, easy to have built too).

    chime in folks old salty's and seasoned mechanics. am i missing something?

  24. Vin It's called a B.F.H. Your getting it as long as you have it apart change out the parts that are worn.  As long as your there when in doubt change it out.

  25. If you're on shore power while docked, you might consider a 12 volt computer case fan or two installed in the access hatch of the engine compartment. Air circulation in the engine compartment will go a long way towards preventing condensation on the engine and assorted parts. An alternative power supply would be a 10 watt solar panel installed on an out of the way place on the stern rail. Running during sunlight hours would probably be enough to keep the compartment air fresh.

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