Italy Unpacked Series 2 – 1/3 In the Footsteps of the Poets

I'm Andrew Graham Dixon and I'm an art historian we're in the basement of Italian this tree and I'm Georgia Locatelli and I'm a chef cause our uncles we are both passionate about my homeland Italy come on let's go the rich flavor and classic dishes of this land are in my culinary DNA I still be like dang and this country's rich layers of art and history have captivated me since childhood it actually brings out the naked body all the law in this series will be traveling all the way down the west coast of the country from top to toe stepping off the tourist track wherever we go this is so Italian I want to show off some of my country's most surprising food this heart of the most bored out of necessity but leaving a legacy the still shaping Italian modern cuisine around the world and the art too is fantastic exotic deeply rooted in history our journey beginning the northwest of the country Liguria a region squeezed between the Tyrrhenian sea and the rugged mountains and we'll be continuing our journey along the coast that attracted and inspired the English romantics to unknown Tuscany to find some hidden gems in the tourist trap of Pizza our first stop is ligurius capital jenny once one of Italy's great maritime republics Genoa is still the most important port in Italy but too often people arrive here only to leave again immediately but they're missing out on a place with a truly fascinating history in the Middle Ages Genoa was a maritime superpower with trading links across the Mediterranean Genoa is a city of huge contrast grand palaces are squeezed within a warren of medieval alleyways now I'm sure there's a beautiful but rock Palace somewhere around here finding it there's another matter you're no longer doing I think it's down here actually does it look like the way to go to a palace this one's not but these are the Karrueche rather than streets in the city they're almost like corridors in a house can imagine few who tried to invade the place you know that's why they have this network of medieval buildings in fact it's a form of defense there Charlie you can't bring horses it'll slow you down so much yeah cactuses if anybody wants to invade medieval Genova the attackers are trapped in a space maybe like this and then did you sudden they'd just kill them they pour boiling oil on them this you arrows down on them what can they do the light is really look at this shadow school or yes I think is this way scusi me dis fiancé chiamo Palazzo Spinola pardon Oso seguro de ribera quoi Julia d'etre continue a date-rape way I think that's it there that's it finally hey it looks a bit different than the other building this is the amazing thing in Jennifer is that you're here in the sort of poor area of town and then suddenly there's this fantastic barak palace Genoa's power and prosperity was at a peak in the 17th century it's a symbol right of this sudden new wealth you know when the Genoese bankers that take over from the made it she suddenly seventeenth-century and they're the richest guys in all of Italy basically vast grace net Hall of Mirrors sort of mini version of a Versailles interior for the rich chenery's the Rococo style was the perfect way to show their power and their money mirrors gold silver stucco you name it so here we are mmm the piano nor delay there the grand sala this is the centerpiece of the whole palaces but what isn't x marks the spot it's chandelier marks the spot right and I think that chandelier if you imagine it lit it's telling us what he wanted us to see if we were visiting which is this series of paintings which is all entirely about celebration of the Genoese at sea so that way of saying to all the kings and the ambassadors and the diplomats who come to jennifer we generate is we've all the waves no causality then they call it the Superman general of a proud the story of Genoa is a great maritime Republic has rather been forgotten but it was every bit as powerful as venison in the 17th century so you kind of capsule of one of Europe's great forgotten historical powers yeah oh you like her yes there's one more Palazzo we need to seek out it's got a beautiful art collection including one painting I particularly want giorgo to see but first I want to give Andrew a real taste of Jim where the meaning Lydia is chickpeas we are in the Shimada which is you know like one of the oldest for another shop in town first Andrea yeah we're gonna make very Napa okay look it's gonna put some olive oil which is you know obviously local olive oil what is this like a pancake and it kind of pancake is an old way the shop is linear from 1850s that's water and chickpea flour which is sort of aqua fatty ready churches ali-a okay Brima 2000 requests a fiesta de la prima we started a fermenter and Elysee or a little bitchy or a temperatura ferment in between yeah is fermenting so thank you have you had a natural least over us yeah our for me after you look here we go Umberto a material for nine for holidays I see that you have a special oven to make a pizza this is a very special oven just to make funny nothing a little smile you need the flame because you've got a glazing and make you really crispy and beautiful on top it's beginning to bubble up it looks to me like the burnt surface of some dead planet it's like so quite silent like the Sun when you see the Sun on the be with you only exclusive smell is great a quest Rafa renata see how crispy its creamy on the Sun hmm the crunchy only Oh puh-leeze voila at one evil celebre Mahalo Calvin Laura Sarah la prima di tante al Travolta spiri mo sí seguro when you're talking about fast food pcs executives all about you stop you're one of these is like to freshen nothing every down a burger does it we three he loved that that's why there is a real virus into Genoa it's a place where the old doesn't overshadow the new and visa-versa and the old can be pretty special as you can see at our last destination the Palazzo Rose here we may actually get to meet the general days these are the people these are the new merchants who think that their kings look at who's painting them Anthony Van Dyck this is Anton Giulio brignoli Sally a young member of the dynasty and his wife but look how he's had himself painted definitely look like somebody ages achieve something and he's sitting on a horse which is a huge bold symbol because in the past you would only ever depict the King on top of the horse right and the horse symbolizes the people symbolizes the nation that the king controls and rules so this guy is saying to the world all that onio generates much and I'm sort of a king one of the things that's quite interesting is that they're actually quite muted the colors are low the expressions are quite reserved they've got that sort of Genovese reserve they're not going haha look at me that's right well then it looks like two different paintings look at the bottom is not even really well finish is it well this is Van Dyck splits I thought about your writing so it's like the famous sketching us of his handling he would paint really quickly but he's painted this so quickly that you can actually see through the horse's leg it's almost a sketch down here maybe because it was last year he was in jail over here he finished it quickly is to cash up before he left lesson ah here we are at last the painting I wanted to show George oh but cook is reigneth this is one of these paintings that shows the engine room of the palace he is this new well it just happens in the 1620s they suddenly develop this taste for having paintings of ordinary people such as their own cooks their own servants oh we've had the upstairs and this is the downstairs I love the birds in it this is so beautiful look at the turkey and yeah I love the way he painted the fire you know how you said that the Van Dyck was very sketchy at the bottom well he he really admired Van Dyck straat see who painted this picture and he's painted that fire with some of us but I think it might be a painting with them kind of secret double meaning because throt Singh had been a capuchin monk but he left the order and he got into trouble with Franciscans who said that he had made himself dirty with his paintbrush there's something about this picture that maybe suggests what they disapproved him to me there was just somebody's blanking s1 there's a twinkle in her eye I think the painting is meant to put you in the place of the aristocrat who's come down to the kitchen you've got a bit of a flirtation going on with your kitchen maid where she meets your eyes the way she goes how's that half-smile then will you get back la they really like you she's just really having a look at you I think she fancies you come on stop this cook would have been preparing a luxurious banquette the opposite of what I'm going to cook a dish with irony pretentious is classless you can find in almost any family table not to mention in our restaurants across the world that is just fantastic I mean do you want to eat that what do you want to look at it how much attention do you think they paid to the arrangement of the colors cuz I think that's I mean look at this there's a lot fantastic you don't need to eat that what would you litter is it maybe one of Liguria best love recipe is Pathology love easy Basilico para esto character easy I requested for difficuly know it for Akali in a particles okay you know the shape of the leaf which like a spoon but the main important thing about these is the the sides of the movie uh-huh because each of the leaf will contain some chlorophyll it makes it really beautiful it's a big deal you have a lot of others so it's more dispersed that's right small and the leaf and better will be the pestle yeah how much do we need cotton IV&V Sonia doubling with faster people do a head or math of your own benefit one should be enough but because I know you and I through quadrotors Elena here just by 4 then you can always gonna join us Nazi Party – in the paste on a person a Pastis United and it's early yet ok ok Blarney Yolo proper nuts Raggedy ranch we got a real sense of this town today it is art little alleyways and beautiful palaces time now to go to make some pesto up here above generals maze of medieval alleys you can really see how the whole city faces towards the sea and the harbor okay Andrew look we got everything we need to make a pest of we're gonna do one with fine colonel how many different pesto recipes are there than there is no one fix recipe some people put record I need some people put almond some people put walnut some people to thank her so depends are you balancing and obviously depends as well will they have remember this is not a cuisine made of creativity disease cuisine made of necessity this what the head that's what they cook the only thing really the knees in common is then basil than the resolve oil and Ismail in the mortar I'm gonna put a bit of the pine how all of these at home that's your next Christmas present oh it's really good it's like stress relief all right let's start with the bat great smell yeah yeah yeah let me let you convincing the leaf to release his flavor no it's not yet to convince him to become a pest you're massaging you massage I fell off now we have to put the last two ingredients and parmigiano-reggiano yes jeido caress it and the olive oil which is you know of the olive oil from the Google you know almost like the olive oil was made to taste so light and know like peppery and not bitter it's almost like if the landis produces olive oil especially to make pesto okay I met to be that tasty ah season it no good no first perfect good luck fresh green you will see as well out they actually pester because it's been break like that you would actually attach itself to the pastor would end on the pastor kind of thing the pastor would be like hanging you know dirty of these things and when you eating it pesto goes with any pasta but here in Liguria they like it with trophy some chopped potatoes and a couple of green beans we are ready okay I got the cheese yeah it's delicious you made him man I made a yeah yeah I was a sous chef can I turn it up the first thing then we know about high stock he's about you know in the cam Boozer of the Christopher Columbus he was from Genoa there is some paper that talks about this sort of a pastern is called a yachtie there was a based garlic which obviously also is very good for scurvy and all these things so Genovese cuisine real genuine is this cuisine of preserving food so you can travel for long distances yes exactly that I like that thought look pesto was the fuel that helped Christopher Columbus to discover America but the key success of his expedition was the fact that he could take some good food with him Christopher Oklahoma it's time to say farewell to old Genoa and its port what better way to do that then a drive that offers one last glimpse of the city from on high extraordinary elevated road that runs right through the middle of ancient Genova I love it makes the city in to run a drive-through experience you cross palaces at the level of the piano no Berlin and we can pass straight directly beside some John 16 century frescoes of Sancho killing the dragon you see is a guy having a shower I think it also expresses the determination of the Genovese not to turn this into entry museum that's right before we head for the wilds of Liguria we're going to stop off to see some of the best 19th century realist sculptures in Italy they're housed not in an art gallery but a cemetery staliano traditionally ornate tombs where the preserve of wealthy aristocrats but the prosperity of the Industrial Revolution change all that finally ordinary working people could afford them too and they wanted to be mortalized down to the finest detail ah look at this Wow absolutely amazing isn't what I love about it is this sort of combination of total realism and the sort of idealism that lady could have stepped straight out of the 19th century ballroom and she's been rushed up to heaven by an angel sort of beacons to the beyond oh this is brilliant look at her there you got my adapter he's wonderful yeah and his clothes what I love about it it's almost like a stone costume museum if you want to see what people wore in Jennifer in the nineteen sixties it I mean he's got a Charlie Chaplin hat that's Lewis looks a little affecting the Italian version of Charlie Chaplin this is a complete scene so deathbed scene it's not it's so touching the sadness of the expression is well over there it seems from real life isn't it going to the cemetery still a more traditional a very very important thing I mean I remember when I was young you know that every week reactor would descend to me staliano occupies 250 acres it's one of the biggest cemeteries in Italy and is still in use today imagine look how big is in our peacefulness this is like a city of the dad and one tomb here means a great deal to me it belongs to the intellectual father of the 19th century movement to United it was nicknamed the beating heart of Italy I wanted to come here I never been here to be in this tomb is the problems after my see this guy's was so important because he believed on Italy be United his idea of this egalitarian state as a republic Matheny was a real free thinker when he made these revolutionaries the movement in Italy it was caught and them you know was sent in exile so he decided to come to London if your friend of karma used to hang around with karma things to hang around with Dickensian ground with a lot of like you know the intelligentsia of the moment they're used to paying to go and talk apparently was an avid drinker of coffee as well his funeral was attended by hundred thousand people can you imagine a thousand people around here you know Clady see if he one of your heroes yeah Metheny was a real believer in democracy and he spent his life promoting it in Italy and across Europe the 19th century was a period of turmoil involving both questions of national identity and man's relationship with nature the English Romantic poets loved the rocky Ligurian coastline to the south of Genoa called the Cinque Terre leg and came here often from the 1820s around here the best way to travel is by point this region is so inaccessible that it remains almost unchanged for centuries I think what's interesting about this area is it it's not popular really among modern tourists not you see the DS down alike what are you going through now and les is reachable by land but in the 19th century Byron Shelley all the Romantic poets they loved in here because they had this idea that nature should be wild sublime dangerous stormy turbulent like the soul of the romantic poetry that's hot because Shelley even died here it was that dangerous yes he died in the sea storm then you feel like you're actually inside a romantic painting yes with the you know the distance the Blue Horizon it's stunning and then he opens up and so look look the city just appears of that now you can step seal the terraces the life was hard here if you can imagine it's not like a paradise as they said look at that look at the way they work the land meter by meter by meter its difficulty Gurian things for the vegetables and fruits and things and weed but what a job to gather your harvest and gather with your harvest lovers like a rock climber I'm fascinated by this unique relationship between the Ligurian x' and their land I can understand why the romantics were drawn to this place everything is appealing everything's got steps and stairs this land doesn't have any secrets for the locals in the Ligurian cuisine herbs are grown wild finds its way to the pot as well as any delicacies bo in the shop one of the nicest and example is a dish that I'm going to cook this evening it's called torta Pasqualina we have met up with Maria was lived in these mountains all her life and knows where to find the best herbs for our daughter hmm mr. Sano populated ROTC livery yeah yeah ah because I've to check WA Dunkirk reseller sergeyeva de beste I see here with that she only knows the name in dialect so not just ladies where's that water Bojan dibujo hey man I get a portable jumbles on Oh Creek Abed this is my kind of shopping Georgia yeah for free yeah I know that Oh grazie Maria yeah yeah hmm that's just that I'd I'm not a little bit like a reddish that's nothing a little bit like a radish yes grass yeah go Crisafulli Shippo Frank Alitalia Taylor you can tell your tale the green toilet paper the uses financially in the flower opportunity to make a meal out of the roots they make a meal out of it of their name out this is very local specialised knowledge of the local plants the kool-aid Maria la gusta coherency Damiano wanderer Pecola her grandma yeah my teacher or mother and taste me to show you cuando era not allah to unknown alien Adela treinta 89 subsist on Tatar ye she's 78 years old herself if you see how she come up the steps hello la pelea por que como que cosa de Julio Cabella fish sir what is amazing and she's think that's excited about finding them Oh gracias alpha not your pork we know chubby I wish they'd seen all of your mess on your missile if you're not Maria is amazing a one-woman herbal encyclopedia I think she should be made a national treasure hello and I couldn't be happier with the herbs and she found for us so why do you know this recipe from Georgia I come across it when I was very young I used to come down with my family and we just eat it in the bar this is the food that I really love when I come to Italy is actually D simplicity which sure the attachment understanding of the land we're eating food that was gathered by Maria we learnt it from her grandmother so we're really touching history and touching the Ligurian issue Andrew I don't understand the whys you're gonna feel it under our teeth just the leaves when I'm gonna cookie if I found a nice talk you'll be severely beaten there's a really catchy great I care when you weren't fun any strokes I promise you though what is fabulous about these it's just the mixture then we got of that will determine the frame so every time or every different season or every different village everything recipe what a different result okay Andrew this is enough cuz I'm gonna go into the cake I'm gonna read some poetry and think about the nature of Liguria it's not a complicated recipe just chopped herbs ricotta an egg this is creating cooking people here act to find the best way to combine the ingredients available at any one time with amazing results hey George oh and you everyone on the other terraces has started to eat okay I'll bring you something I got something for you special this bit of coast is famous for his anchovies so when the torta is baking I prepared delicious local aperitif aha dad but I could not come to Liguria and not eat some of this beautiful Judy Wow look two different recipe is that boiled in a cool bouillon which has got lemon and orange in it this one are raw and I'm marinating just with onions and and lemon juice and then some Oregon these look great join it with the microphone a reality you should eat them with your hands because this is the kind of thing that you will have you know if you got the bar you order an aperitif or something before your dinner they don't bring you crisps another solution there's a gyro this is mrs. Ligurian sushi mmm the no one still tastes of the season this is a taste of the Gloria for reals beautiful I'm gonna get the cake for you Oh mmm the smell since you cut it the smell that comes up what does he smell Oh smells of the audience yes it smells of herbes it smells of ha ha I'm really happy with that oh that is fantastic it's like eating a chunk of the landscape it even looks like a chunk of the landscape we've got wonderful fresh and I like the wet sort of portable we can carry that around we'll put it and put it in the boot of the car can you imagine some guys went out to see a pic a little piece of that there's an anthem of the land this is a portable piece of Liguria that's exactly I guess that he remains mobile and it's lovely fantastic I'm so glad you like it I tell you what you've done all the work so I'm going to read you a poem this is written by Shelley as he was looking out across a scene just like this here on the Ligurian coast hmm i sat and saw the vessels glide over the ocean bright and wide at spirit wing ed chariot sent her some surrealist element and the winds that wings their flight from the land came fresh and light and the scent of wing ed flowers and the coolness of the hours of do in sweet warmth left by day was scattered out of the twinkling Bay isn't that beautiful fantastic shellie moved closeby in 1822 soon to be joined by Lord Byron I'm taking Giorgio's to a particular spot where Baron often came to contemplate nature and which inspired some of his best-known poetry some was a mentee the raffia axis wow that's a PK like grotto dello poesia I think what's something that's really interesting that coming here has made me kind of doubly realizes that when the romantics came to Liguria they were really the first generation of English tourists who came not to see a church not to see the Colosseum not to see the monuments of antiquity but to try to touch raw real untamed nature so they worked Baron would prefer the monumentality of this cave who's more interested in that than it was to see the great temples of the classical past so that you would say that there have the first people went out of what we called holiday in the modern sense yeah a new modern sense to picking out what real de life is on the place but the real flavor video tasting video tradition the people that they went to visit they were sick of civilization sophistication powdered wigs in a sense it's the beginning of the idea of getting away from the tools something that somehow feels more simple more pure or more true I mean this must be the craggy earth most hostile this wild bit of the entire Ligurian touch life and it's exactly here the Baron used to swim it's pretty awe-inspiring and there's only one way to lis to share Baron's experience no no George oh yeah oh no do it's cold delicious McAuliffe immersed now in the same water the Dyron was swimming and that's named sherry let's go come on that's the one you look by the time he came to Liguria Baran was already famous for his swimming in fact he once told a friend that he was proud of his long-distance swimming exploits that he was of his poetry although I don't pride my swimming over my cooking enjoying such a beautiful scenery in this way it's pretty unique and what a wonderful way to recharge the batteries for the next leg of our journey we're halfway to Pisa and just across the border into Tuscany are the quarries of Carrara source of all of the materials which made the Renaissance possible beneath the dramatic landscape all these eels are made of marble for me this is one of nature's grandest cathedrals now look at this fantastic I've never been this close this is the birthplace of the Italian Renaissance because the Italian Renaissance begins with sculpture and all the great sculpture was made with marble from Carrara really going up and up when Michelangelo was going to craft the tomb of julius ii he spent nine months up in these mountains do getting his own marble me now those artists don't even carve their marble so Marbley I look at the square because that's really marbled anything else and the locals here have come up we use for marble that are pretty different from sculpture idea with the bass over their soul are them whatever something yeah laughs straight oh yes hi Benji it looks like some confidence here is where the rest this is the cemetery of Lord sorrow possum will be buried in throngs at the basket oh wow so what's inside there lots of cups of lard that's lots of cat of the hot mix we dip our hips the sword I want to stand in that inside a mini machine easy nice six months this dismiss but for hmm that's amazing it smells of this was very sweet it's a little bit like prosciutto but it's different you can really smell the rosemary oh yeah the rosemary the garlic and the salt and then he's secret recipe or spice Greek asana Quinta Chi specialist Patriots fifteen in terms of spices sauces he mmm this smells very exotic it smells to me like the bazaars of Morocco I'm a African West in Tangier unit hey important' a quest Omar mo k el Mar locator Sudha Raj Forte NASA mooyah mom fat respira troppo the marble terrifico on top of keeping the coolness and this the right temperature because you must think that this is the project and comes before the surgery and then you know there is this sort of like transpiration than yes it grieves the marble prairies exactly here una cuestión and molto importante okay John Patrick a posse Oh Angelo bene okay so how do you recommend that we eat it George oh oh you know this is the way they eat e okay we'll just do tongue be so brave okay so mom attended a bit of onions and then nothing too complicated no because the flavor is already there you got all the spies what's that capers let's keep a bit of onions in here something that elevate the flavor look at how beautiful pink almost reminds you of the vein of the marble mm-hmm bizarrely it reminds me a little bit of beating gravid laughs but sometimes salmon that's whenever there's a bit of raw onions and capers except here it's smoked pig fat you are now tasting like the territory real we have arrived now in thirst coming for real well it's true it's beautiful that's what I like about this place it's everything is white the wolves are white even in here which everything is white outside it's white we're eating wife now I want giorgo to see one of my favorite sculptures made from karara's pure white marble it's in the little town of this styie sandwich between peas and Florence is an easy mistake to miss little piece Toya between those two Colossus of tourism it's off the beaten track but it contains one of the gems of early Renaissance art the medieval church of sant andrea was one of only two churches to enjoy baptismal rites here that's why in the 13th century can an arn oldest commissioned a pulpit to be built in the baptistry so simple little Church Romanesque very old pre gothic construction these simple arches this beautiful gray stained incredible the ceiling of our beauty isn't the sea as lovely isn't it but this is why I brought you here because this is one of the great things it's the pulpit no longer is used as a pulpit they've taken the stairs away it's not considered too precious for the priests even to stand up it's by Giovanni Pisano the most tourists who come to Tuscany you know they've heard of Giotto they've heard of duty oh but they haven't heard of bizarre no and in fact he and the work of his father they actually come before jocelyn good show that they're doing this being spired they add well they deeply inspired them and particularly Giotto if you look at this frescoes in the arena Chapel the figures look as though they've been carved from stone and then painted but it's incredible underneath and this is the massacre of the innocents so complicated and so it's cut from a single piece of marble just like how complicated yeah and in the prospecting is incredible in the very motion look at the weeping women down there the expressions are incredible the Last Judgement could the devil down there is heeding the man got his arms in his mouth that's what happens to cooks when they go to how do bad cooks a bit that clip it's interesting the choice of subjects they make the maximum drama the maximum suffering when it might be white marble but you can you can still sense the blood yeah dragged with it this is practical art hmm I mean here's a message a strong message of the people down here gasps ask to get not only tell a story but it's here to make them cry it's a machine for making you believe in God this pulpit really that's what it is the sculptors are the first artists really to tell the stories mm of Christ in this vivid way that will feed into the whole Renaissance there's so many things that become part of it I an art um this is where they are invented by this man Giovanni Pisano it really does deserve to be more famous you could look at the pulpit a thousand times and still find new things to sing pistoia definitely took me by surprise I think any faith wars in any other region would have been invaded by tourists like our next destination so Pisa here we come another great maritime power I think we're on an alternative version of the Grand Tour you know the aristocrats of the past the English aristocracy is to go to Florence vanish when we're doing something different the Iranian side of Italy is power much more powerful than it was in the other side you know in the other side of the Atlantic side only Anthony's here you had bizu you had Genoa so this area was much more open for business you know it's funny how it's fallen out of fashion Pisa seems to me to have the reputation among tourists of a place you only go to for the day maybe even just for the morning you can see the Leaning Tower of Pisa have a pizza and leave and I think that's unfair I think peace is more than that in the 11th century Pisa ruled the waves to reflect their maritime glory the Pease ins built the four magnificent religious buildings that together form the Campo dei miracoli the marshy terrain of the area turned one of its buildings the bell tower into the world's most famous example of subsidence surprisingly for America Republic Pisa lies in land and the river arno become a vital artery connecting sport to the open sea there is no longer report here and verily the river traffic but it's still a great place to get a sense of your city and the loneliest bikes it's one of pieces best-kept secrets the Museum of San Mateo hello it's beautiful but it's the middle of the day it's in high summer massive tourist season and it's completely utterly empty and this is one of the most beautiful small museum calendar in the world Wow the news Angeles is incredible it's actually rather sad what are they made of what they're made of wood they're in a way there and the sort of dead bodies left by Napoleon because when he came to Pisa in the early 19th century he ransacked all the monasteries in the conference is saved what they occurred and all these beautiful wooden statues they generally show the Madonna receiving the Annunciation the news that she's pregnant they're so beautiful so beautiful isn't it really really fantastic it's by Simona martinis one of the great painters of Siena and with Gucci one of the most fantastic panels in all the 14th century Italian art the do looks like it's shining but if they're actually real pieces of glass out right that's why I also think it's an object that reminds us how rich they were in Pisa when the city was at its height as a maritime power look at the gold leaf on that look at the use of lapis lazuli I mean it's not just a beautiful painting huge status symbol but what I really came here to see were these works of art it's really exceptional room this one it is incredible exceptional for me it's one of the most affecting rooms in any of Italy's M Pinacoteca public museums you can travel through history to see how the crucifixion changed in Pisa not and the Italian art and it's a huge change it's one of the great changes in Western art that takes place here because here we've got this is the 12th century so the 1100 s and this is the what we call the Christmas tree on fan's Christ triumphant on the cross comfortable comfortable his triumphing over death his Anatomy relatively unscathed he doesn't look tormented troubled now here hmm this is the great shift here we now have what I think of as a very very beginning of the Renaissance Christ as a real man feeling real pain his body's bleeding hmm his face is full of pain and sadness and if we keep coming around this is by June Tuffy's Arnold hmm if buddies can like put tarted in the and blood is spilling down so that shadow much more pain was that sense almost of desperation this is the moment when art begins to bleed more human more human yes so you can see yourself in there you can see yourself and I think the whole of the rest of the Renaissance with its ideal of realism making it real making you feel like you're there that's what I think this is where it comes from so for all the glory of the leaning tower has definitely more tupiza nowadays Pisa is more of a tourist attraction than the sea power but father Sal is a town with historic port that survived and thrived and where they kept wonderful fish Livorno is not exactly classic Tuscany but it has its charms it's actually rather more beautiful than I expected it to be I mean the s there's a lot of modern mixed up with the old he's a place that has this scale right through fulness to death and his food is light now this town as an eventful history the port was already well established in medieval times Florence bought it from genuine 1421 and he became a free port under the Medici in the 16th century the lady she allowed the Jews to trade here and I was a strong British community – who anglicized the name – Leghorn Shelly was sailing from here to the Cinque Terre in 1822 when his schooner safe and he drowned the reason I wanted to come here is for Livorno signature dish pachuco a earthy fish to the taste of the sea couldn't be more appropriate for the end of our journey what is amazing is the valid the bar it is important variety makes colorful recipe colorful cooking you know it's not one thing we have a coffee yeah we need a coffee well you're not who can prefer I love this one I think this is a 60s coffee bar I love the whole place I like I love them I just love the way the people are here it's almost like the faces that you see in Italian paintings I think he's got to do with the social weight and food is part of society as much and so this is like you have a church or a cathedral to go and pray we've got the biggest building into out is where you got your food it's call you know you do Bing Bogoria here you have the same thing yet try to balance the flavor of the feet so you have to have a knowledge about what a fish will add as a flavor to the soup like so like you were saying that you don't put too much localized you're yet to balance it this is very very important how many kinds of fish do you think you're going to end up with I mean the traditionally you should have 17 different type of fish I don't think we're gonna achieve that by you know we'll get four here between ten and twelve is also seasonal I think that we're not gonna go round by the fish I would like to go by myself which I'm gonna get a better prize I would anglish I will get double the price okay good boy I'm gonna leave you to it I don't know you have to pay for the coffee I'll leave you the money to turn on how you pay for the coffee ciao Georgia see you later you later for Supergirl a a too long yeah George oh my god oh hi de Tolosa no a facility see mo da dutiful table re at a defense knife cambia we're and Rasta you only know name my wallet it's never the same never never the same so I like that coming chapo guzman Josue's yeah they say free app or p4p or show calamari that is the baby okay 150 from the appropriate be lunch re on for to tell you a little defense yeah push me te amo la bukata bukata I don't know the name of these in English you know to nice slice of this palumbo okay perfecto these are all fish then you gets thrown away in England you know this never makes it to the market we don't kind of had the culture of using something like that to making a suit she's incredible la pesca de la pesca teachable Alicia hello De Palma Danny oh look at that this doesn't need to be cooked it's so beautiful gotcha laughing huge area to such a fresh fish is a real treat and I can't wait to see what it tastes like what better setting to cook our feast in the restaurant era gusta in the old port where customers really know their catch here chef Michael Angelo is renowned for his cacciucco and has very kindly lemons kitchen sample the branchial dribble down a supersonic Raja okay last chance Avenue extra virgin olive oil from Tuscany a pepper on she got you combat to become their quantity enemy to a couch or a challenge of frito-lay juries hi this is the octopus this is the octopus calamari and Sofia this is the only fish you then goes with red wine Oh No so that's why you justifies what the chin in it the cheetah another want to work together with you nummy quanto basta basta basta tomahto not a Blackie he wants you really red what's the next stage true the next day is to use some of the fish to stop and we just bring it up then we like to really cook it at least 40 minute then octopus calamari everything would be so like it would be breaking your mouth really well done okay Andrew you remember then these all these fish going into this the Godfather that's just the base but elevational popular okay so they going home yeah how long does all that cook for them cinque minute five minutes no more new house yeah okay okay these is the most important beets this garlic I got some so you rub toasters red with garlic and put that as the bed put that as the base Oh what is she more more nice anymore I'm tastic it's almost thought you never flop gritty but it's got that substance to it yes body it's through traveling after dark laughing mm defa needn't be October available la fille de miembro no Valerie call this a body if the poor each other I want to be to all my life there cuz you go up in our name cacciucco is always made in large quantities so it only seems fair to enjoy it in the company of the restaurant staff what what happens when you just attack it ladies first you can get a little bit of this sauce right hold on Georgia Wow delicious people food for the people well you don't need anything else do you which isn't a bit of time and we blow passion I'm eating with my fingers as usual this is not a polite very yo solo on pork roast pork oh oh you know I is so fishing of aviary tonight me this piace it's really nice to whether the fish each one picture to separate flavor this is so like special about it a la salute a Michelangelo Elavon ricotta to cook and dad what an amazing dish I love the fact that it's all seasonal just like in Liguria the locals here have a strong relationship with their surroundings it's the land of the sea that it takes the recipe and not vice versa and you look at that this is the tea Iranian sea I can imagine here like an Vesuvius ago and the maritime republics were fighting off it must have been so busy and so all this Galliano and all these invaders the Spanish the French we're all here dueling out and just little bits of seeing it now looks much more quiet isn't it it feels a little bit like a part of Italy that the world's left behind I feel like we've been going much against the flow traveling this way coming to Livorno I mean there's a lot of single tourists in the villa that I could see just fishermen chefs that I love that I love the women of the market yeah I like it really like a real town you know you really get the flavor of it I also really liked the Ligurian Coast the wildness of it the lack of development in that sense that you could really feel that you were in the landscape that hasn't changed for more than a thousand years but I love Maria I don't have picking the hub's with the energy of a thing maybe a six-year-old Maria was incredible and what about the art that we've seen definitely was the pulpit in P style that was unbelievably beautiful yeah I'm struck by the very strong connection between the territory and the art traditions of the church it says you've got Carrara is that great quarry just up there in the Hills expertise in carving seems to have interest sort of built in here he's incredible and there's wooden crosses there's something very immediate about the art it's almost to me the wooden crosses are like the cacciucco they hit you in the face you know there's absolutely blatant it's the art of the poor the fruit of the port just watches on our journeys I feel that we touch something right at the center of Italy here even though we've been on the edge yes no I mean si Italy's got so much coastline so the coastline is as important at the center this is where the fusion of of culture reading happiness come let's go I take you to Lhasa so in latter year to learn one thing if you order to get anything you have to say oh oh and you can see that next up on their tour at the same time next Friday next tonight on bbc2 it's all in the worst possible taste a Super Kings and Reginald II hunter talk Kitsch with Stephen Fry and Qi

10 thoughts on “Italy Unpacked Series 2 – 1/3 In the Footsteps of the Poets

  1. Is there anyone in Italy that is not a Christian? Any Jews or Muslims or Buddhist's or Sihks? I mean all I've seen these whole video's is the one guy cooking and AGD going from church to church talking about Jesus.

  2. AGD knows his history, however it's surprising how he could toast Columbus. knowing how he got Isabella to fund his ocean trek to Central America to kidnap some Indians and begin the long, murderous road to stealing all the silver, gold and gems from the Inca, Myan and Aztec empires.

  3. What did he mean, "nowadays artists don't even carve their own marble?"

  4. I went to pistoia because of this show and it is a lovely town that deserves a lot more attention than it gets.

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